North from Hakai!

Here we are, anchored in Pruth Bay just off Hakai Pass.  One of our favorite spots on the planet!  Although 25 knot winds were predicted, we opted to anchor in the middle of the bay for these sunset views, but paid a price that night.  Heron swung wildly on her anchor chain... but held fast, somehow.

  Here was our path, etched on the GPS the next morning.

We made our way farther north to Shearwater, and Klemtu... the weather alternating between dramatic rain storms and clouds.  In Shearwater, we laid over a night, as Gale Force Winds were predicted again. When they never materialized, we were the first to leave...

From Shearwater north, we encountered few other boats.  Just the occasional fishing boat headed south from Alaska... 

But, we did bump into WHALES and MORE WHALES!  Perhaps the reason why the chief mate is smiling.  It's indescribable, really, being surrounded by humpback breath all day...

 We met this fellow right off the bow...

 Such a graceful tail flip...

 Like whale ballet!

 Skipper Jeff in six layers... grateful for Starbucks.

And the Chief Mate... happy to be headed north again, where the wild things are.

Nikki's EcoVentures!

Nikki

 

Meet forest-dweller Nikki van Schyndel.  One of the most memorable BC coast days we've spent in a long time was with Nikki, who provides  customized eco-tours through her one-woman company:  Echo Bay EcoVentures.

When we told Nikki we were interested in learning more about the B.C. coast's native plants,  she took us to this lovely Broughton islet, where we spent the next hour crawling around munching on  sea asparagus, red and green-leaved orack (good in salads), arrowgrass (grass that tastes like cilantro), and spoonwart (spoon-shaped leaves, tastes like mustard)!

It was fascinating to realize  how many plants growing here are delicious (and handy when your boat-lettuce is rotting). We had a great time foraging and listening to Nikki's astonishing stories.  Before we shoved off, Nikki took out her knife, and we pried some barnacles off the rocks to cook later for lunch. 

Next, we sped off in Nikki’s skiff to the deserted First Nations village at Mamalilaculla.   

We hiked across the island with Nikki... 

Arriving at the immense support posts of this ancient First Nations Long House, and adjacent abandoned cottage.

Wolf carved on  ancient mortuary pole

The art of fire...

For the day's grand finale, Nikki started a fire on a deserted beach, using nothing but cedar strips. We were blown away...

Our  Lunch...

And even more so when she cooked up a late lunch of rice, dried salmon, dried kelp, cranberries,  bolstered by all the foraged greens and wild mushrooms we’d collected earlier.  It was both lovely and incredibly delicious. Then came the barnacles...  which Nikki  simmered in a pot of salt water.

Jeff wasn’t sure about eating a barnacle. “Let me wrap my head around this one a minute…,” he said. " I can’t believe I’m going to eat a barnacle.  I’m from New Jersey! I like hot dogs!!”  But in the end, he slurped down two barnacles, claiming they tasted kind of like clams.

We can't to read Nikki's book, Becoming Wild, due out this spring. Thanks again for the amazing day, Nikki.

Nikki and the Barnacle Eater, headed home.

Islands and Clouds

 
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So what, you might wonder, does the eagle see?

Fish...

Islands and clouds.

Islands and clouds and mist and trees. Always trees.

A tall island with blue sky, the water still.

Low islands, with shaggy trees and clouds.

Low brown islets surrounded by glassy seas and puffed white cumulus.

Red-roofed lighthouse, tip of an island, silver gray clouds.

Annoying and nearsighted interloper spooking my fish!